Touring and Gibraltar's Arboretum
Gibraltar - Arrived Sept 10, 2008 @ 10AM
We left Almerimar around 11AM the day before with a gale forecasted on Navtex. The winds were to be behind us and frankly, that is the kind of weather that Dakare likes. Not necessarily us, but Dakare thrives in it. The GRIB wx files showed a more moderate forecast calling for 20-25 knots with 35 knots more to the East of us. We decided to leave with the intention of taking advantage of the good winds. We hope to sail most of the way. The only downside to the strategy was the forecasted wave heights, which were in the 2+ meter range (7-9 ft.) For those of you who are not familiar with average wave heights, think of it this way, the majority of waves will be around 2 meters, but it is possible for at least 1/3 of them could be bigger. In fact, we easily saw 3 meter waves (10 feet) while we were out there, and except for some yawing, Dakare handled it all just fine. But we did run into a problem...
3D View of Gibraltar and the Gates of Hercules on
Either side of the Straits of Gibraltar.
Notice the trench going into Gibraltar and how the seabed falls away in the upper
left hand corner - just beyond which is the Azores. There can be a current differential
in the Straits of 5 or more knots since the Atlantic ocean pours into the Med through
this tiny slot. A depth profile can be seen in the upper right. Red is about 3,000 Ft in this view.
Our Swan Song in the Med
We sailed for the first 2 hours with only a reefed Genoa. That was moving us along at a comfortable 7 - 8 knots, even with the waves which hadn't yet built to their maximum height. Unfortunately, after 2 hours the wind began to die and finally, after being out there for 3 hours there was no wind (where we were) but obviously there was still lots of wind out there behind us as the waves continued to build. It must be said that to sail with no wind and big seas is not a pleasurable experience. So we fired up the iron jenny and motored for the rest of the trip, as the wind never came back, at least from behind us. Yes, in true Med fashion, the wind rounded up and began to low on our nose! It was light, varying from 5 to 10 knots out of the SW. So here is the situation, we have large steep waves coming from our aft quarter, light winds coming from our forward quarter and the motor on. Not exactly what we had planned for. To make it worse, we encountered unusually strong currents coming out of the Straits of Gibraltar. What surprised us is that we saw 3 knots of current against us starting as early as 30 miles out from Gibraltar. Now these are the types of currents (typically 2.5 knots) that you would expect to see in the Straits itself, so we were quite surprised to see them that far out and even more disappointed that we were making between 3-4 knots towards Gibraltar when our engine speed (RPM's) was set at a level that would normally move us along at 7.5 knots. So we labored on, taking double the time it should have taken to do the last 20 miles. How typical of our sailing experiences in the Med and how befitting that this should be our Swan Song here.

Dakare Safe and Sound in Marina Bay with the
Million Dollar View the "Rock"
Dakare's Berth at Marina Bay (Purple Circle)
Yes, we are right next to the runway. In fact, everything is close to the runway<G>
We arrived in Gibraltar around 10 AM, having escaped some threatening weather behind us. Gibraltar was overcast and foggy. Totally different from our last visit here in 2003.
360 degree Panorama of Gibraltar taken from the roof of the Marina Bay Office
(The starting and ending views are looking West into the sunset; use scroll bar at bottom of page)
This was our second visit here and things had changed a lot over the last 5 years. Sheppard's Marina was gone and in its place was a new high rise building complex. Lots of construction was still occurring as the count of construction cranes attested. Marina Bay was still the same and we were glad to get a protected interior slip as opposed to the exposed one we had during our last stay here. Unfortunately, the primary purpose for our visit here was to go unfinished. We had made plans to have our life raft inspected here. The first thing that Karen did upon our arrival was to call the liferaft inspection company (With whom we believed we had an appointment) only to find out that the only inspector that they had, had taken off to England for 2 weeks. Ugh! No way we can stay here that long. Bummer! (Actually, because of bad weather, we did, but that is another story - See Wx Planning below.)

We arrived in Gibraltar just in time to join in their Independent Day celebration which they treat with as much fanfare as the US does on the 4th of July. Interesting, it appeared that many Spaniards cross over the border to participate in the festivities. The day we arrived, flags were being set on buildings and a rock concert was scheduled for the evening. I don't quite understand the propensity to schedule these things (Rock Concerts) so late, or should I say so early in the morning. Perhaps it is a sign of my age, but even when I was younger than now, I felt the same way. The next day, the actual Independent Day, Sept 10, multiple events have been scheduled. Two of the biggest is 1. Around 12:30 PM when they release thousands of red and white balloons, which as I was told by the dock hands at the marina, typically fly into Spain and cause the Spaniards, to the delight of the Gibraltans, quite a bit of consternation and 2. Around 9:30 PM, a big fireworks display occurs.

Independence Day (National Day) Revelers dressed in red and White, the Gibraltar colors,
on the main walking street in Gibraltar
Dining Al Fresco in Gibraltar's Old Town Square
The preponderance of people appeared to be Spanish
The Same Plaza, the Day After!
The Home-made Cardboard Boat Race
It was in Gibraltar that we finally caught up with Greg on Carina. The last time we saw Greg was in Taranto where we all spent the Winter of 2006/7. Greg is planning to single hand his way back to the Caribbean on his 31 classic designed boat that he built himself. He is looking for crew but so far has been unable to find anyone. Over the years I have gained a lot of respect for people who rave the oceans on their own. It is not an easy endeavor. At one stage in my life, when I had more romantic notions of sailing, it seemed to me that solo sailing to distant ports was the epitome of sailing adventure. Experience and the raw truth of sailing has taught me otherwise. Bravo to those who do...
Touring Gibraltar and Gibraltar's Arboretum
Gibraltar's Fortress Entrance
Although we extensively toured Gibraltar with Jerry and Nancy on Láme Libre in 2003, and made a point of seeing most of the tourist sites, there is still plenty of things to see and do here. The most notable factor is how much construction work has been going on over the last 5 years since we were here. It almost looks like a different place. One of the major marinas, Shepard's, has given way to a luxury building complex, thus reducing the amount of available slips there are here for transients. Another trend is that there seems to be a increasing permanent boating population here which is also putting a greater demand on slips. A further complication is that the inner  La Linea anchorage (In Spain and adjacent to Gib) is being closed down to construct new facilities in the future, which we are told will include a marina. While we were there, they began work on building the quays. That should help with the overall slip demand but will make it all the more difficult for cruisers to find anchoring space In southerly winds.

Sunset at La Linea Harbor, Spain
Gibraltar From La Linea, Spain
Dakare (Red Boat) in La Linea, Spain Harbor
(Gibraltar harbor lies just to the South)
We went back to the Royal Gibraltar Yacht Club. Not much there had changed since we were last there but we were told that the club will be moving to a new facility next year. ...and so it goes in Gibraltar - so much new construction. I liked the old yacht club a lot since it had a cozy cottage type environment. I hope that the new facility will not be sterile.
The "Old" Royal Gibraltar Yacht Club
I visited the King's Bastion near the current sit of the Yacht Club. In 1792 this was the site of one of the bloodiest battles between the English Gibraltar forces and the combined allied forces of the French and Spanish. The allied forces launched both a land and sea battle against Gibraltar and the King's Bastion, near the southern end of Gibraltar saw an onslaught from floating batteries. The British forces were able to destroy all of the attacking batteries with hot shot which set the batteries ablaze. There is more to the story than this, but it will give you a general idea of the importance of this Bastion.
The Bastion has undergone a serious renovation over the past few years. The exterior is much the same as its original character but the exterior has been completely redone, and to my surprise, I found a pretty radical use for the interior facilities (See pic below.)
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The King's Bastion - Outside
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Bowling Alley - Inside
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Memories of Days Gone By...
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Old Cemetery in the Heart of Gibraltar
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Commemorating the Dead of Trafalgar
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IMO William Forster Who Died at Trafalgar
A Gem in the Rough...
As it turns out, Gibraltar has its own arboretum. Whenever I get a chance and a location has an arboretum, I try to visit it. This was far from the nicest that we have seen, but what made it so interesting is how large it was and how it was nestled into the southern end of town. It looked like it could use more care, but was fun to visit none-the-less.
In the Arboretum,
General Elliot Who Defended the Southern Bastion of Gibraltar
There are many alleys, gullies and cross streets laced throughout old Gibraltar. It was fun to explore some of these byways that had interesting names from colorful characters of long ago Gibraltar.
A Disappearing Icon of British Rule
To Do List - Continued
Our Continuing To-Do List In Gibraltar
Finish varnishing aft toe rails
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Continue working on new APT Satellite system to get better pics & S/N ratios
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Remove APT Sat Pre-amp & replace F Type connectors for Antenna
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Add extra battery to house bank
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Load WxToImg onto new HP notebook & optimize
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Reprogram Link 2 Battery Monitoring System
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Top off and exercise emergency Power Pack with 12V DC & AC Inverter Supply
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Check & lubricate Guest Head
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Recommission EPIRB and test GPS feed
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Plan sailing strategy through Straits of Gibraltar taking into account currents & tides
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Upgrade router with new firmware for wifi (with Greg)
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We Figuratively and Literally Missed the Boat!
Actually, we missed the tide, and that is a problem. It was Monday morning (Sept 15) and we were still waiting for our mail. I finally decided to pick the mail up myself at the depot rather than waiting for it to be delivered. I was hoping to leave Gibraltar around 8 AM at the latest, but with having to pick the mail up myself, the earliest we could leave would be somewhere between 11AM and Noon. Not good for catching a favorable flow of water westward.
The water flow in the Straits is regulated by the following things:
 Current
 Tides
 Location /bottom contours
 Counter Currents
Current is always against you because the water evaporates in the Med and is replenished by Atlantic waters flowing in. One result of this is that the Med has a higher salt content then the Atlantic which is very good if you want to float while you are swimming. A slight correction is needed to compute the actual rate of flow of water. This requires one to take into account the vector addition of current and tidal flow. There are some times, particularly in the middle of the Straits where the current is zero. But this is for a short period of time and changes with location. For all practical considerations, it is safe to say that the current will always be against you when heading West. Thus, it is the tide that is your friend. The maximum tidal range at Neap and Spring tides is 1 meter. At other points in time, it is less. The differential in tidal range must be computed to determine the contribution of tide against current. Many sailors do not concern themselves with this level of detail but it can make up to a half a knot of difference, either against you or with you. The Straits Sailing Handbook explains how to do the necessary computations and provides guidance to understand how the tides and currents vary across the Straits from Gibraltar/ Tarife to the African Coast. When crossing from Tarife to Tangiers, this is important guidance because the tides and currents across the Straits vary greatly with time and location.
Tides are the variable that will allow you to experience a favorable flow. One must compute the net difference between the tides and the currents to arrive at a good approximation of the net flow to be experienced in the Straits.
Your location in the Straits will also determine the net flow to be experienced, and of course this varies with time. What is good along shore will not necessarily be good in the middle of the Straits, and of course, vice-versa. You can be experiencing a net flow against you in the middle of the Straits, while at the same time your speed can be boosted near the shorelines of Spain or Africa.
Counter currents exist and are what you need to seek out when going against the flow near shore when the currents and tides would normally be against you. As in kayaking, one can use the counter currents to get "upstream." I do not know of a general recipe for the counter currents. Knowing where and when they are is more a matter of local knowledge or just plane luck. Common knowledge may indicate one thing and because there are so many variables, the counter currents may not be there as expected.
All in all, we decided that leaving 3 to 4 hours after high tide was our best bet to get a positive water flow from Gibraltar to Tarife on Spain's southern coast before it opens up to the Atlantic. From there, the current starts going northward and we want to go SW. The middle of the Straits at that time has an inward flow of water. Doing the rhumb line at Tarife is not advisable since you will be bucking a negative current. So our strategy is to sail directly South (Course of ground) or slightly SW. Our intent is to bring us as quickly as possible into the North African favorable flow of water. From there, we would start of rhumb line direct to Madeira, being careful to avoid the Seine Seamount out in the Atlantic which is known for creating rogue waves. The Seine seamount juts up to 86 meters from the seabed and can create nasty seas when conditions are just right.
Back to "Missing the Boat"... There are some aspects of European living that truly reminds us that when it comes to the work ethic, there is still a lot of 3rd world manana mentality floating around. We were expecting DHL to deliver our mail last Friday, 5 days after it was mailed. It actually reached Gibraltar via England on Thursday. Sooo, where was it. We decided that I (Dan) would pick it up rater than waiting and Karen would get the boat ready to leave the marina in my absence. It took a little over an hour to go through the process and we could just make the tail end of the favorable flow. When I returned, it was clear that Karen wasn't ready to go. She had talked with Greg on Carina and did some wx checking of her own and became convinced that today would be a bad day to leave as we would have to motor the whole way there. She suggested that we should leave next weekend when northerly winds would fill back in and we could sail to Madeira. It was pretty clear that she had made up her mind. Looks like we will spend a few more days here before leaving.

Weather Planning
We primarily used 4 sources for weather forecasting:
 GRIB Files
 NOGAPS Files
 APT Satellite Pictures
 NAVTEX Reports
 Weather On Line
The first three are graphical while the last is a text base report. There are several GRIB files and all are based upon computer modeling. The variant we use is called the GFS model. We receive, through WInlink, a textual file with wind and pressure gradient information and then use Viewfax to post-process this data into a graphical representation (See first graphic below.) The NOGAPS model is obtained direct through the Internet which we receive directly on the boat using our router antenna, when we are close enough to connect to an open wifi system (See second graphic below.) The third graphic we obtained is real-time APT satellite pics that we obtained through our helix antenna using an R2FX receiver and WxToImg software that converts the output of the receiver into computer generated displays (See pics in second column of the table below.)
If our Internet connection is good, then we will also try to access Weather On Line, a UK weather product. You will see a copy of it in the table below.
The chore for us is to find a weather window that satisfies two conditions:
 Favorable weather through the Straits of Gibraltar, preferably in daylight
 Favorable winds for our rhumb line to Madeira (See green line in the graphic below.)
Unfortunately we missed the first window that would have satisfied both conditions above as our mail from the US was not delivered by the time we expected. By the time we got our mail, the weather out in the Atlantic changed to either light airs or wind on the nose. So we decided to wait. We were thwarted several times in that the long range forecasts were promising, but as the target days approached, the wx forecasts changed. Shallow lows off the coast of Spain and Africa were the culprit. This scenario seemed to drag on and on. The problem is that if one stays to long (late) in Gibraltar, then there is a good chance that the gales will set in and weather could be nasty.
Below is a replay of what we were looking at. A hard look at the graphics will show that on one day or the other, one of the two elements for a good weather window were missing. The question is: With hindsight and the benefit of the graphics below, what would you have done?
Our Rhumb Line Gib to Madeira
NOAA Wx Forecast Showing the Low
Just North of Madeira (Sept. 21)
Calendar Reference
----- Note: To see the NOGAPS graphics or Notes, you will need to scoll left to the fourth column ----->>
Date
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Real-Time Sat Pictures / Notes
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Wind Diagrams
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Notes
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Sept 9
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The wind forecast to the left shows the adverse winds (Westerlies) going through the straits of Gibraltar. Higher gusts were likely in the Straits, so this was not a good time to leave. It looked like the winds would turn favorable in 2 days or so, so we planned our departure for Friday/Saturday, by which time we hoped to receive our mail. Friday came and went and there was no mail. DHL would not reopen until 9AM Monday. So we redid our plan to leave Monday. Unfortunately, the +3 hours after high tide through the Straits occurred at 7AM, the ideal time to leave. We figured that the earliest we could leave was around Noon. We figured that we would be looking at adverse tides along the way. Note: Wonderful Northerlies in the Atlantic.
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Sept 15
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When I returned from DHL at around 11AM, Karen greeted me with some bad news. The winds out in the Atlantic had changed due to a low located West of Madeira and we were facing SW winds, that is, we would have winds on our nose the whole way to Madeira. So we decided to wait for the winds to change. It looked like the winds would change by Friday... or so we thought.
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Sept 19
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The Low can be seen circulating North of Madeira in the picture to the right. Winds are still coming on the nose. Forecasts show continued SW's or light / variable winds which means motoring
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Sept 21
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Winds are on the nose out of the Straits and the winds are right on our rhumb line our in the Atlantic.
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Sept 22
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Real-Time pic taken at 1PM
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The NOGAPS wx chart on the far left shows two lows. The yellow low is a deep one and is headed towards England. The low affecting us is a shallow one just West of Spain/Portugal (Teal).
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Shallow low continues to move eastward and although the winds in the Atlantic are more southerly, still not the best conditions.
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Sept 23
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This chart is beginning to look better as the low has moved over Spain and the winds are out of the NW. Winds still on the nose out of Gib. We would consider this as a good day to move but the forecast for the next day (Below) shows winds direct out of the West.
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Sept 24
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Sept 25
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Colored clouds in pic on right typically denote thunder-storms. Prediction is for rain tomorrow.
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This is our new target departure day, based upon the forecast.
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Sept 26
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The colored blob on the left brought heavy rains & lightning early morning the next day (27) that this pic was taken
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Sept 27
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This Wx On Line chart is for the 28th (Next row.) It is just plain nasty outside - wind gusting, cold and wet.
25 knts in the Straits(depending on whose model you use) and that does not take into account the compression around Tarife
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Sept 28
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Sept 29
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Sept 30
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The weather pattern looks good for a departure today but we decided to wait one more day to let the seas calm down outside. It rained so much over the last two days that the local paper declared it to be a record breaker with the most rain ever reecived over a 24 hour period. About 1/3 of the anchorage cleared out this morning, catching the 8AM tide.
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Oct 1
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If we average 6 knots we will get to Madeira in 4 days. We hope to get there in at least 3.5 days so we will have to average at least 7 knots. We have done much better than that before, so we are treating the 3.5 day as our target and hoping for better.
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Oct 2
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This is the expected weather at the end of the first day into our trip.
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Oct 3
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This is the expected weather at the end of the second day into our trip.
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Our Guest Book
(Please note that we can only check the guest register when we have access to a land line while in )
(Nov 28, 2008 - CY200808)
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