Tenerife
XMAS on Dakare 2008
Michelle (Irony), Us, Nick (Irony), Priscella & Don (Chautauqua), Greg (Carina)
New Year's Eve 2008-09
John Lubimir & Us & John Buxton
- Santa Cruz, Tenerife
New Years eve was the 3rd time in Santa Cruz, since our arrival, that we have been exposed to a major fireworks display (National Day, XMAS and New Years Eve).
The island in general: Tenerife is the largest island in the archipelago covering an area of 2034 sq km. Pico del Teide in the Teide National Park is the highest mountain in Spain (Including the Pyrenees) and reaches an altitude of 1850 meters. To the west are the spectacular Teno Mountains and great walking opportunities around Masca. To the north is pretty Garachico with it's sea water pools, and nearby La Orotava, a historical and cultural marvel. Puerto de la Cruz is chic and for shoppers it's a paradise. Moving to the north east, the Anaga Mountains are the oldest on the island, and again stunning walking territory, and the capital Santa Cruz is a buzzing cosmopolitan city, as rich as Las Palmas de Gran Canaria for it's choice of museums and art galleries, with the Museum of Nature and Mankind a top spot for exploring Guanche pre-Hispanic settlement history on the Canaries.
Our Course from Gran Canaria to Santa Cruz on Tenerife
A beat into 2 Meters Seas - Fun Stuff!
To get to Tenerife from Gran Canaria proved to be a chore. This is the first time that we had to beat to make our course since we left Graciosa. Had the winds been out of the NE as they usually were, we would have been fine. However, as luck would have it the winds were pretty much out of the North and that meant we had to work to get to Tenerife. We motor sailed the whole way and got there after several hours. The seas were not too bad and as we closed in on Tenerife, despite the fact that the winds were coming from the North and had a clear fetch, the seas did abate considerably. That was good for us. We arrived around 3PM in the afternoon.
Tenerife as seen in Google Earth
Places Visited in Tenerife:
Opposite Column:
Dakare in Santa Cruz Marina
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Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz was our arrival port in Tenerife. After arriving, we were escorted by the marineros to a floating dock where we could side tie Dakare. The only thing bad about our location at Porto Santa Cruz Marina was that we were a 7 minute walk out of the marina complex to the town. Wifi was available, but as usual, it was not free. We did find a free Wifi location, provided by the municipality, but it was not convenient. Having just left sunny, pleasant Port Mogan in Gran Canaria, we were somewhat disappointed about the unseasonably cold and wet weather we found in Santa Cruz. All the locals kept telling us that the weather we were experiencing was unusual for this time of the year. What was particularly unfortunate was that we had saved our varnishing of the hand rails until we got to Santa Cruz. Bummer! We should have done it in Port Mogan. We rented a car for 3 days with the hopes of having at least one good day to drive over El Teide to see the vistas of all the Canary islands from this highest point in all of Spain.

Dakare Parked in Marina Santa Cruz (Muelle Deportiva)
The Harbor of Santa Cruz as seen in Google Earth
We passed this statue several times every day on our 7 minute
walk into the town of Santa Cruz from the marina
After countless efforts to identify the name of this statue, after going to the large, main Santa Cruz information pavillion and talking to several of the women there who promised to dig up the name of this seemingly forgotten statue (without success), it seemed like it would be an impossible task. So started calling this statue "The Forgotten Statue of Santa Cruz."
OK, the day before we left, having exhausted all of the intelligentia of Santa Cruz with this quest, I ran across a street cleaner who knew the name of the statue ---> Preñada!
Position Log Report from Porto Santa Cruz, Tenerife
Happy Thanksgiving from the Canary Islands!!!
Today, with Karen on board, we made the 50 NM transit from Gran Canaria to Tenerife.
This is the first time that I have felt well and Karen complained about not feeling so well. Josh also got sick.
Conditions were not that bad but it is the first time in a long time that we had to beat into the wind. We had an average of about
23 knots of wind and 2 meter seas until we got close to Tenerife where it dies down to about 14 knots and 1 meter seas or less.
We made the trip in good time. We left at 9AM and arrived at 4PM.
We are now tied up at a marina in Tenerife. We do not like our slip that much since it has a metal protrusion sticking out intimmidatingly, with a
promise of scratching our hull. Unfortunately, we are now pinned against the dock with a Northerly wind. So we may move
tomorrow.
Before leaving Gran Canaria we did a major update to our website and there are
plenty of pics there of Gran Canaria. Enjoy!
Dan and Karen and Josh
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Santa Cruz is where we kept Dakare for several days while we explored the island, had our life raft inspected and changed over our hydraulic backstay adjusters to fixed backstays. We also searched high and low for a charcoal water filter for the back flush system on our water maker, which eliminates the brine intake water. The charcoal filter is very important since it will eliminate chlorine if it happens to be in the water. A good chance of that exists when we fill up with tap water form the local marinas. If the chlorine is not eliminated from the fresh water flush, a necessary part of maintaining the health of a water maker, then the chlorine can damage the reverse osmosis filter in the water maker. I went to every chandlery, every hardware and plumbing store I could find. I walked for hours with no joy. So until I get one, we will swap out the charcoal filter that we have filtering our water from the dock that goes into the water tanks on our boat when we need to backflush the watermaker. That occurs about every 5 days when we are not actively using the watermaker to make water. Then when are through backflushing, I will have to replace the filter back into the dockside water system. Problem yok (as they say in Turkey). There could be worse problems!

One of the many parks in Santa Cruz
This one featured Trees from all over the world
The town of Santa Cruz was easily accessible to the marina though it took approximately 7 minutes to walk from where our boat was located to the main thoroughfare in town. Santa Cruz is not as large as Las Palmas in Gran Canaria, but is cleaner, and filled with gardens and stores where one can buy just about anything you need. Karen liked going to El Corte Ingles and to Carrefores for shopping. Dan found a Media Mart, which had only been open for one month, and got an IPOD Nano for the Atlantic crossing. It was the perfect device to use during those long nighttime watches. He put about 100 TED Talks MP4 videos on the IPOD, each of which lasted about a half an hour.
Celebrating the Coming Year 2009
The Santa Cruz Cabildo Insular - Administrative Center for all of the Canaries

We met several new and some old friends while in Tenerife. At the marina in Santa Cruz, we made the aquaintance of an Irish couple Jim and Sharon on Wendradi and their 4 absolutely dlightful and extremely well mannered children, one of which, the oldest child, Michelle, celebrated her 13th birthday there. We were fortunate ot meet an English couple, Nick and Michelle on Irony, with whom we shared several wonderful eveninngs and dinners. One restaurant worth noting that we went to together was La Herbita in Santa Cruz. A moderately priced restaurant, it has been in operation since 1893 and wreaks of old world Santa Cruz ambiance. Another restaurant that Karen and I went to several times and thouroughly enjoyed was the restaurant de Porto, a red, turreted building that can be seen from the marina. Their Combination Plates for approximately 5.50 EUs were tasty and well priced. We were also fortunate to run into Don and Priscilla on Chautauqua with whom we spent time in Bermuda almost 6 years ago while we were waiting to leave for Europe. It was nice to reminice and catch up on, over one of Karen's home cooked meals of vegitarian lasagna, the whereabouts of old mutual friends and to hear about their different (from ours) European adventures.
The War Memorial Tower in Santa Cruz, Plaza de Espana
The wires in the picture support decorative lamps that
give the town a festive spirit in the evenings
Karen was very excited about getting to Santa Cruz since there is an El Corte Ingles (a major Spanish shopping store with a very nice grocery store included.) She planned to do our final provisioning there for our cross-Atlantic voyage.
El Corte Inglese Lit Up Like Marcy's Department Store in NYC
The Museum of Man and Nature in Santa Cruz (Calle Fuente Morales s/n, Santa Cruz. Tel: 922 20 93 20) is a big affair, and a must visit on your tour of Guanche sites and history on the Canary Islands. This museum discusses the archeological finds from pre-Hispanic settlement sites on Tenerife and elsewhere in the Canaries. It also explores indepth the flora and fauna of the Canary Islands, with exhibits and information on numerous geologists, naturalists and archeologists who have come to Tenerife over the years.
The Main Walking Street in Santa Cruz Lit Up For XMAS
More superb museums in Santa Cruz include the Museo de Bellas Artes (Municipal Museum of Fine Arts) (Calle Jose Murphy 12, Santa Cruz. Tel: 922 24 43 58). Of particular interest here is the depiction of the landing of Spanish conquerors on the beaches of Amazon, with a rather eccentric looking Alonso Fernandez de Lugo standing by his giant wooden cross. The painting is by Gumersindo Robayna Lazo and dates from 1494 and is typical of smug colonialist art - we see the same image elsewhere in depictions of movement west crushing Native Americans or indeed on the pilgrims landing at Plymouth Rock. In this painting a Guanche warrior crouches behind a cactus looking on to the pomp and circumstance of de Lugo's landing - crouched and submissive. Catholicism and military might have arrived. Not quite the true picture though - Guanche resistance on Tenerife particularly was relentless and fearsome.
Our Inconvenient, if not uncomfortable, WiFi Station in Santa Cruz
Much later on, we found that we could use McDonald's (Yes, they are ubiquitous) but our time there was limited to half an hour, totally insufficient for our daily computer chores. Then thanks to Chautauqua, we learned that we could use the wifi at Cafe Atlantico.
The Fountain is Unveiled for the First Time!
While in Santa Cruz, we witnessed the finishing details of this very large pool being built in the main plaza of town. The fountain shot water approximately 100 feet (if not more) into the air.
For miltary buffs: Located in Santa Cruz is the Regional Military Museum, c/San Isidro, 1 (Castillo de Almeida), Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Tel: 922 843 500. Open Tuesdays to Saturdays from 10am to 2pm.
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Military Museum Entrance
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Lord Horatio Nelson
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If you are a military buff and like regala, flags, weapons of all sorts and want to understand the military history of the Canary Islands, then this is the place to go.
Maintenance Items in Tenerife (In prep for 800+ NM voyage to Cape Verde Islands)
Swap out Hydraulic Backstays for Fixed Backstays
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Life raft inspected and serviced
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Get IPOD for use offshore and load IPOD with files
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Replace defunct IPOD with new IPOD and reload files
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Clean and organize aft lazarettes
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Dive on boat and clean prop and hull
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Clean and polish all stainless
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Clean and polish decks
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Replace old plastic shackel ties
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Clean Engine, genset, AC reefer and air conditioner filters
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Tighten engine fan belts
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Replace paper and charcoal filters in dockside water supply filters
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Replace charcoal filter in watermaker backflush system
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Replace finger pull for engine room door
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Clean Bilge
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Sand and varnish handrails
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Clean and organize reefer and refrigerators
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Inventory and organize pantries
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Purchase and stow food and liquids for offshore
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Recommision forward head
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Replace bungy cord straps for running blocks
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Replace Dell XP computer with HP Vista machine as main navigational computer and test all software and nav interfaces
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Change Main Engine Oil, Oil Filters, Fuel filters
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Run Fuel Polisher to polish fuel in tanks
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Replace battery islolators with battery combiner & test
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Install replacement watermaker low pressure pump & test
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Switch out Dell computer for HP computer as our new navigation computer
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Inspect all standing and running rigging
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Re-rig and adjust tension on forestay
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Re-adjust tension on backstays
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Reorganize forward sail locker
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Top off fuel tanks (Lugging fuel from service station)
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Buff out scratches in Dodger and plastic curtains and then clean and polish
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Fill jerry jugs with spare diesel (20 Gallons)
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Exercise Dive Compressor
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Stow 110 LB Bruce anchor in sail locker
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La Laguna
We took the metro train to La Laguna. We were told that there are many old buildings and nice walking streets. The Metro ran us 1.30 centimes (Euros) each way/person. The Metro was clean, quiet and quite modern. The trains ran regularly. We missed one train and within a few minutes the next train showed up. While in La Laguna, we found a nice local taverna, Casa Maquila, that served a menu of the day for 9 EU and we ate there. It consisted of bread and wine, watercress soup, a sizeable plate of fried sepia (like squid) and dessert. We were quite satisfied with the meal and the service. The streets were lined with white and red poinsettias, very attractively arranged. It looked quite festive. We wondered around for a few hours, taking in the sights and returned back to Dakare, satisfied that we had seen all we wanted to see in La Laguna.
Poinsettias
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The Carillon Tower in La Laguna Inglesia de la Conception
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Balconies Adorn Buildings in La Laguna
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XMAS in La Laguna
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One of the Many Walking Streets
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Some of the Flowers in La Laguna
El Teide
If there's one image that casts it's influence across all the Canary Islands it's El Teide. Spain's highest peak - Mount Teide, is 3718 meters high. Teide has been a national park, and duly protected, since January 1954.
El Teide - Google Earth
The Triangle indicates the summit location where the pics below were taken
The Arrow'd Line identifies the hiking trail we took to the summit
Position Report from the Summit of Mt. Teide, Tenerife
Special Position report from Mount Teide, Spain's Highest Peak.
The weather was great. We had a break in the cloudy weather that we have been experiencing all week - which was great news. There were some clouds but they were broken and we could see the islands around us.
We posted some pics from Mt. Teide on our website for 2008. We also made one panoramic picture consisting of 24 photos that we stitched together. You can see that also on the website.
Special note to Dianne F-M.... I can't believe you hiked up the mountain in bare feet!!!! What was going through your mind???? Were you doing some sort of fanatical religious penance thing? Going up was hard enough. I cannot imagine how hard it was to walk down that way. All the more power to you!
Cheers to all.
Dan and Karen and Josh
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El Teide was about a 2 hour drive for us from Sanata Cruz. We had made arrangements to get a permit to hike to the summit of the mountain from where the Funicular would drop us off, leaving us with about a 1,000 feet to climb. Our ascent was scheduled for Sunday at 11 AM, and this day was a gamble since the weather had been so cloudy and wet during the previous days. We were lucky and when we got there the summit was clear (It usually is because the clouds set in around 1500 - 1800 meters) and most of the clouds in the area were broken, affording us opportunities to see the Tenerife below and to see the other islands around us. It was hard going at the summit. Having been so acclimatized to sea level breathing, we truly noticed the difference at that altitude. Karen and I both felt dizzy several times during our ascent. Not having to punch a clock meant that we could take our time and that we did. It wound up being a beautiful day for the trip.
El Teide as seen from Galletas
Not as starkly barren and devoid of vegetation as Lanzarote's Timanfaya National Park, the volcanic landscape you'll see here in Teide National Park and elsewhere on the Canaries is the result of basaltic magma eruptions (basaltic magma is renowned for less violent eruptions which flow for long distances), as opposed to trachytic magma which is more viscous than basaltic and can build up in volcanic craters and explode violently. During the basaltic volcanic episodes people generally had time to escape - they had time because the lava flow was slow rather than violently eruptive! Teide's is usually covered in snow in winter.
Our first view of Mt. Teide after coming out of the clouds
Karen and Dan on the Summit of Mt. Teide
A Condensed View of the Panorama from Atop Mt. Teide (24 Pictures)
You can see a detailed view of the panoramic Picture of Mt. Teide by Clicking Here
The Guanches called Teide 'El Cheide', and all that survives of their testament to Tenerife eruptions is a few myths and legends, such as El Teide swallowing the sun as the result of Guyota the devil who lived inside the volcano and grabbed it fits in with a possible eruption of Teide in the 13th Century. This Middle Ages eruption lasted several decades, during which black lava was thrown up and Teide grew to it's present height with a more peaked crater. Previously (recorded in Roman Times) the crater had been more rounded. Post-Hispanic history records the eruption of 1704 to 1705 which was a fissure eruption with lava erupting from Siete Fuentes, Fasnia and Montana de Las Arenas.
A View of the Sea and the Towns Below
You can see the venting of Sulphur from the Crater at the top of Mt. Teide
Later the Garachico eruption is dated 1706. Montana Negra erupted on 5th May that year just south of the town. The eruption lasted 9 days and destroyed the town. Other eruptions include the Chahorra eruption of 1798 and the Chinyero eruption of 1909 which lasted 10 days, reducing the original 9 mouths of this volcano to just 3 big ones! Teide's crator is 80 meters across, and it's still active with rumblings in the summit crater. It's the island of La Palma that lays claim to the most recent Canary Islands eruption in 1971. An unusual rock feature, popular with film makers, in the park are El Roque Cinchado - a stunning example of the dramatic rock formations resulting from the erosion of volcanic rock. Carlton Heston (as Moses) leaned on one in the film 'The 10 Commandments').
Karen Pretending She is Carlton Heston
Puerto de la Cruz
Puerto de la Cruz was pretty underdeveloped when British holidaymakers first started arriving in large numbers in the late 1950s/early 1960s. This was before Cesar Manrique began developing his swimming pool and the promenade and originally rocky coastline was worked on. Holidaymakers in this early period often found themselves sunbathing on the roofs of their apartment or hotel buildings, and flight delays were a common occurrence largely due to cloud over Tenerife North's airport.
The Ocean front of Puerto Cruz that attracted holiday makers to the Canary Islands
Window Shopping
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Karen suffering over her big purchases - The sign say 1, 2 and 3 Euros
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The Brass Trio - They were terrific!
Galletas
We didn't spend much time in Galletas. We stopped there to check out the marina for a possible stay once we left Santa Cruz. The marina was small but they could accommodate us if we chose to go there. We walked around town for a while checking out all the closed stores, it was a national holiday. Then we stumbled into a folk fare with an arts and craft show. Now we have been to lots of "Open Markets" but this was the first one where they were selling quality things, not just the junk we made mostly in China that we have become accustomed to seeing. All were hand done by local artisans. Very well done. While walking around and listening to the sound of music, we stumbled into their folk dancing. This was a considerable improvement over the folk dancing we saw in FuertaVentura. We also stopped for a late lunch before heading off to Orotava.
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Folk Festival in Galletas
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3 Masted Schooner Tenacious
off of Galletas (See pics in Rubicon, Gran Canaria)
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Orotava
We were told by the very helpful guide at the Information Center in Santa Cruz that Orotava was not to be missed. And indeed she was right as this was the prettiest of all the towns we had seen. What made it extra special is that the locals had spent a good deal of effort dressing up their town for XMAS and combined with all the flowers that were still in bloom (See Below), it showed beautifully. The guide also recommend a very nice restaurant to us for dinner. It is called the Casa Lercaro and is part of hotel in Orotava. The surroundings were beautiful (See the pic below) and a meal for two with wine will run you about 40 EU. Orotava should definitely be on your list of places to visit in Tenerife if you should ever make it there.
Flora in Orotava
XMAS in Orotava
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Iglesia Conception
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Famous Balcony in Orotava
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Iglesia Conception in Orotava
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Balconies in Orotava
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Evening Shot of Same Church
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Society Building (Club)
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Entrance Casa Lercaro
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Dining Room Casa Lercaro
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Beautiful Park Setting in Orotava
Orotava as seen in Google Earth
Gardens are in the center of the picture
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