Sailing TIme: Gibraltar to Porto Santo, Madiera Islands - 3 Days, 5 Hours
Madeira, Places Visited in 2008
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A View Of Davy Jones' Locker!
3D View of Madeira in the Foreground (Porto Santo is in the extreme foreground) with
the Canaries and the Coast of Africa in the Background. Way in the distant
background is the Cape Verde Islands (Looking SE.)
For purposes of perspective, the distance between Madeira and the Canaries is approximately 300NM.
Red indicates a depth of 15,000 feet and white toward the upper right indicates
depths of 20,000 feet or more.
(Note: The Abyssal Zone (Depths greater than 2,000 feet) also known as "Davy Jones' Locker"
is that region of the ocean that receives no light. (Light is said to be filtered out at depths greater than a 1000 feet.)
All of the red areas shown in the picture are 10 times that depth and receive absolutely no light, yet there is a profundity of life at these depths.
Porto Santo (Upper Right) and Madeira (Lower Left) Islands (North Heads-Up)
Porto Santo
Porto Santo is the NE most island in the Madeira's. It took us 3 days, 5 hours to get there in pretty rough seas (Forecasted to be 2-3 meters, we think they were more like 3-4 meters) and wind velocities forecasted to be in the 15-20 knot region. We experienced 35 knots for prolonged periods. It was in general, not a very comfortable trip.
Dakare on Her way to Porto Santo, Madeira.
We did encounter some traffic on the way, but our AIS system
once again proved valuable in helping us to avoid traffic.
Monument Welcoming One to Porto Santo
The Open Roadstead at Porto Santo. Dakare anchored to then left of the protected harbor.
Position Log Report from Puerto Santo, Madeira
Oct 4, 2008
Had a hell of a rough trip to Madeira. Did the trip in 3 days, 5 hours. Ran between 10.1 and 7.5 knots a lot of the way with only small periods of time under 7. Wave heights were horrible though. 3-4 meter seas with several really big ones on a beam to near broad reach. Ugh. I paid hommage to Neptune 3X's. I haven't done that in years. Even Karen wasn't feeling well. You know it is bad then, but at least Josh didn't get sick.
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Dakare at Anchor
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Dakare and other boats at anchor in the open roadstead
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Quinta Do Lordes
Located on the NE end of Madeira, Quinta do Lordes is a new marina. They have approximately 250 slips and are the chosen starting point for the Les Isles du Soleil rally, which unfortunately for us was 1) scheduled approximately 2 weeks from the day we arrived and 2) consisted of a large number of catamarans. I say unfortunately for us in that the rally overbooked the marina and the beam on the cats ate up slots for 2 boats of the equivalent length. We were only ale to stay there for a couple of days while we tried to get our leaky salt water pump for our genset repaired. We ran out of time and somewhat half volunteered, half were asked, to leave the marina to make room for the other rally boats who were now bunched up outside. We left with the intention of having the repair finished in Funchal.
The Les Isles du Soleil rally, primarily a French rally, starts at Quinta do Lordes and goes to the Canary Island, then on to Dakar and then to the Cape Verde Islands. from there they head off to Brazil, where their finally is if a trek 500 miles up the Amazon River. Bon Courage!
Quinta Do Lordes - Madeira Eastern end of Madeira
The marina is so new, that it does not show up on the Charts
The Marina was very full thanks to the Les Isles du Soleil Rally
(The foreground slips are only for small boats)
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A Natural Lava Vent peering out from the Volcanic Ash
Somehow it looks familiar!
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Dakare in the Marina
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Restaurant and Bar
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Un-opened Faculties
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Funchal
Dakare Anchored in Funchal's Outer Harbor.
Originally we were closer in but had to move as cruise ships were coming in and
We would most certainly have collided.
Our First Night in Funchal,
We were awaken at the crack of dawn to move our boat. This picture was taken
after we moved the oat and we still had a close encounter with a cruise ship
backing up into the harbor.
Dan, Greg (Carina) and Karen about to risk our lives taking the famed
Madeira Toboggan Ride
down the mountain.
Funchal is the heart of the tourist industry for Madeira. Here you will find everything a tourist could possibly want. The marina in Funchal was full so we had to anchor out. The problem was that the wind conditions in general were strong and although we were safe from southerly winds which would make the harbor totally untenable, we still had to put up with a lot of rocking and rolling. Other cruisers who we talked to indicated that in the previous two weeks conditions in the outer harbor were more agreeable.
The Se Church in Funchal and Karen standing in the entrace way of a historic Maderian A-Frame
To see Funchal, the marina is best but anchoring out wasn't so bad. One disturbing trend that we found in the Madeira Islands, which was true for both Porto Santo as well as Funchal is that they now are imposing an anchoring fee. We have paid to anchor before (In Croatia) so the idea was not new to us, if unpalatable. However, the rates that were being extorted for anchoring were exorbitant. In Porto Santo we were told that it would cost 43+ Euros for us to anchor in the open roadstead around Porto Santo. In Funchal, we were told that it would cost us 37.50 EU a day to anchor anywhere within a 3 miles distance of Funchal. Believe me when I say that under most conditions, you cannot anchor off of Funchal anywhere but the harbor area and only when the winds are not lowing from the South. This is a disturbing trend.
Around and about Funchal
The following pictures were taken at Funchal's colorful market.
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Scabbard (Typical depths - 4000 feet)
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We saw this ceiling wine rack in the wine store in the Market.
What a great idea for our wine cave.
Presidential Residence and Gardens
While walking about some gardens in Funchal, I quite innocently stumbled into a compound area which turned out to be the residence / office of the Governing President of Madeira. If this had been the US, I probably would have been shot, or certainly arrested. After wandering about and taking pictures, I came across the residence (Still not knowing where I was) and gingerly entered the building, sensing that this was no ordinary building. Inside were 3 people who looked at me somewhat astonished. It was clear that they were surprised that I had the temerity to enter. I asked what building this was and the secretary there very proudly spoke out, "This is the residence of the President of Madeira." They were very gracious and not intimidating. I asked if I could take some pictures and they said yes. They even turned on the lights inside to help with the lighting.
Botanical Gardens
Panoramic View of Funchal from the Botanical Gardens
At the Botanical Gardens, Greg and Karen Are Reflected in the Palantir(SP?)
that tells the time of day where the spot of light is focused on the sun dial underneath the glass.
Notice that you can see the clouds in the sky imaged on the sun dial.
Our Guest Book
(Please note that we can only check the guest register when we have access to a land line while in )
(Nov 28, 2008 - CY200808)
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