Turkey Summer 2006
And the Band Played Waltzing Matilda is being played in commemoration of all those who lost their life at Gallipoli, Turkey, 1915
The Summer of 2006 - Turkish Cruising
Updated July 29, 2006
General Cruising Area for Turkey
Taken from Google Earth
Turkey and Greece to the Boot of Italy
Places We Visited:
As we headed North, we vacillated back and forth between Greece and Turkey. Below are our stops in Turkey:
Also See:
Marmaris
We returned from the Med Red Rally and went back to Marmaris at Yacht Marine. We have spent the last few days getting ourselves organized and cleaned up. Our boat was very filthy from the Red Sea transit. We had red dust (with an oily consistency) all over the boat. Since we just had our mast painted, we thought it a good idea to wash our mast as well as our boat. It was quite an affair. Unfortunately, the water pressure being what it was at Yacht Marine, we could only get water our of our hose just a little bit higher than our first set of spreaders. That was about 30 feet up. That left 50 feet unrinseable. So we had to do it the hard way with washing and dry wiping everything above the first spreader.
Now that we are back in Marmaris, we hope to have some other small items addressed on Dakare:
Small ding in topsides
Small hairline crack in deck
Re-engineer and mount Main Outlhaul Turning Block on mast
Mount fairlead for Stays'l
Wax topsides again
Varnish handrails
Get repaired kayak back from Demir
Redo dodger - re-alignment of plastic windows
Dry dampened spinnaker
In the week we spent in Marmaris, we also worked on the following items:
Get our Turkish Transit Log and clear customs (1/2 day)
Check Proxy settings for connection to Yacht Marine WiFi
Upgrade firmware for our omni/directional WiFi antenna system
Get Bluetooth working on Inspiron machine and get GPRS working via Bluetooth
Get shipping instructions to return FItSense Heart Rate Monitor for warranty repair
Get MaxSea working
Resolve idiosyncratic behavior of Dell Machine working with LCD Monitor in cockpit (Need to configure for both on simultaneously)
Send out Med Red Rally Interview forms (Including updating mailing lists, etc.)
Resolve Tech article problem with Meir Givon
Reconcile SSB Frequency Table
Get and register Avast in lieu of Norton
Test and tighten bolts for drive shaft and transmission
Equalize Batteries
Make Fikret Package of Visual Basic
Picture CD for Peter
DVD for SeaScape
Get Affinity billing squared away
Clean up unused apps off of Inspiron
Begin work on Cruising World article for Med red Rally
Collect boat stuff from:
Ilhan Demir
Murat & Sevim
Engin - Star Upholstery
Organize boat stuff back onto boat & store
Polish SS arch, winches, windlass & fittings
Clean mast (1/2 day - 2 people)
Remove Varnish stains
Rewax gunnels
Run dive compressor
Change air filter and change oil on dive compressor
Stock up on Food & Beverages
10 hour test of bolt tightness for transmission drive train
Unclog or preventive maintenance of shower sump, aft head and aft sink drains
Remount Bruce 110 anchor, kayak & paddle and side ladder
Get bikes, clean and break down. New tires on Dan's bike
Put sun cover on dinghy
Rerun dinghy fuel hoses to engine
Replace dinghy filter elements
Clean dinghy
Restring fishing rod
Air camping gear
Fix clogged washing machine (outlet hose)
Renew boat insurance
Make reservations for Italy winter moorage
Touch up engine paint
Update website
Update ship's database
Air out spinnaker
Mount stays'l fairlead
Sand rubrail
The above items do not include day-to-day activities like cleaning the boat interior, cooking meals and cleaning the dishes, laundry, etc as those activities, although time consuming), nothing unusual wrt everyone's daily living activities.
...And just as you might think that the party is about to begin... there's more!
Since leaving Marmaris and while underway, we fixed the main navigation computer that had been hosed due to a problem with Bluetooth. We have not yet gotten Bluetooth working but we have been able to get the com ports working again. We got GPRS working via a Com Port cable vs, the Bluetooth mechanism we were using earlier. We also got both Nobletec and our backup nav package working simultaneously just like it had been working prior to the Bluetooth problem. This may not sound like much but in fact represents countless hours tracing down very enigmatic problems. We also had a problem registering onto our home brewed WiFi interceptor. It had been working fine and then we updated the firmware. We got the system working.
About 3 weeks later, while at anchor, we found that we could no longer sign on. Our logon was refused. Now this is very strange since 1) It had been working just fine and 2) All the hardware and software involved was co-resident on the boat and not off at some remote location (In other words - we were the system administrators with full access rights to our own equipment.) As it turned out, while solving the problems with the com ports discussed above, Mozilla (Firefox) was accidentally erased and so I was trying to sign onto the WiFi router using MS Internet Explorer (Ver 6.0.2900.) Again, after phone calls and countless hours, it was determined that IE was the culprit. It was not passing parameters to the wifi router properly and thus we couldn't sign on. We loaded Mozilla and it worked fine the first time. Ugh! The hours spent chasing our own tail!
Back to cruising???
Before leaving Marmaris, we ran into Telequah. The last we had seen them was several years ago in Trinidad. They had decided to join the Blue Water Rally Around the World. They were one of the boats to have been caught up in the Tsunami in Pi Pi, Thailand. Their tale is chronicled in detail on their website www.Tahlequah.com - it is well worth a read. We also met up with Greg on Carina and Peter on Rainbow Star. Greg is always a great source of information on just about every topic. Greg also was instrumental in our building of our state-of-the-art WiFi router. I like to call it our hi-tech eavesdropping Internet system. Greg provided the tech specs for the system and the hands-on flashing of the firmware to make the system work. This router system has been fantastic and has allowed us to access the Internet and surf the web from our boat. Thanks Greg!!! Peter Page, is on Dakare, hard at work steering, during our Spring participation in the Med Red Rally. Peter always had interesting & funny stories to tell. He has had more different careers than anyone we have ever met.
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Greg Miller, Carina
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Peter Page, Rainbow Star
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Unfortunately, most of the cruisers at Netsel have left. Only a few were remaining. Most had either moved to Yacht Marine in Marmaris, were on the hard, or had taken off to go cruising. So Netsel was very slow to say the least. Caglar, the marina manager at Finike had been reposted to Netsel Marina and it was nice to meet up with him and to discuss the many challenges he was facing at Netsel. We certainly wish him the best. Of all the Turks we know, he stands the best chance of pulling it off. We also caught up with we caught up with many of the cruisers with whom we had spend the winter and we were fortunate enough to catch up with Joan and John on Seascape at Yacht Marine before they
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John & Joan,
Seascape
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headed off to do their voluntary work program helping the Palestinian community in Bethlehem.
When we start cruising again, we plan to head north along the Turkish coast as far as the Dardenelles. Along the way we hope to see our friends Julia, My Mermaid and Wind & Sea. Somewhere along the way we hope that we can see Odelia and Cloverleaf who are behind us. We also hope to catch up to Escape Key, Thistle, Kalaerin, Moonraker and Sea who are all headed to the Black Sea.
Bodrum and Turgutreis
Bodrum
D-Marin Marina and the Town of Turgutries
Scenes From Our Summer Cruise in Bodrum / Turgutreis
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Castle at Bodrum, Turkey
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Josh, Studying or Playing?
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A Gullet Dolphin
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Ken (Julia) and Josh Being Friends
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Lookin'Good at the Bodrum Market
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Karen and Larry (Julia) - Veggie Market
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Local Women Shopping (Pun Intended)
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A Local Turk Hard At It!
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Dan with his Basket of Strawberries
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S/Y Julia with Guests, Kate & Laura
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Turkbuku
Turkbuku - The St. Tropez of Turkey
Our course from Turgutries took us north around the peninsula to Turkbuku
Dakare sitting peacefully at anchor in Turkbuku Harbor
You Can Now See Us on Google Earth!!!
Visit our position on Goggle Earth
(Go GoogleEarth / GE Community / S/Y Dakare - to see out postings and positions on Google Earth)
Views of Turkbuku
Alticum & Cukurcuk
We first went to Alticum and then headed West to Cukurcuk to make our way around the peninsula to Agathonisi
Alticum & Cukurcuk
Our Harbors of Refuge from the Northerly Winds
Two harbors in contrast
Alticum and Cukurcuk could be no more different than one another. Alticum, a Turkish vacation town, complete with Ferris wheel, amusement park, restaurants, pubs and stores was a hubbub of activity. Cukurcuk, was the opposite, a protected anchorage in winds from the North, it had almost no activity minus the fish farms and one small restaurant for the few locals that come there. We chose to stay at Cukurcuk since the winds had picked up considerably (out of the North) directly from the direction in which we wanted to go (of Course!) Unfortunately, the winds changed to the NW and a swell refracted into the harbor at an angle that put the swell at a 90 degrees to the direction our boat was sitting (in line with the wind.) So we began to rock and roll. Saving the day, for we would have suffered with it, our friends on Julia and Sea & Wind came by to visit with us in this harbor. They immediately deployed a line tied from their stern to the anchor line (About 1 boat length our from the bow) and wee able to move the boat facing into the swells. Although aware of it, we had never done it being fortunate enough not to find ourselves in that situation before (except a long time ago in St. Kitts.) Being motivated by Ken and Larry, we rigged the same line and spent a very peaceful night at anchor
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Our Weather Via our APT Satellite Receiver
Clear & Fine, That's a low to our NE bringing
northerly & NW winds 15-20 knots. Great
for our wind generator!
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Sigacik, Turkey
Sigacik Harbor - The walled in portion of the town can be seen in dark Gray above
Sigacik is an old city close to Izmir and its greatest claims to fame is that it has the original defensive wall built during the Byzantine period and that it has resisted the incursion of both tourist and the pressures of nearby Izmir. It very much reflects the feel of an old town in Turkey 100 -200 years ago. We didn't particularly like it there. After spending about 15 minutes walking around in the old walled city, we had seen all there was to see and the few restaurants that were there did not look like they had the cleanest health codes standards and their prices were very high. The weather was favorable, that is, the Meltemi was in the 5 - 6 region and so we moved on after one night to head further North.
Old Town Street
Inside the Old Walled City
Middle of the Day and no one is out but us!
Alaciti, Turkey
A great place for wind surfers and kite surfers. A great bay with good holding. We spent two nights there taking it easy and preparing for our next jaunt against the Meltemi.
Alacati Harbor - Dakare anchored far into the harbor.
Shallows are shown in Red
Cesme, Turkey
Yet another Turkish tourist town - it was cute and interesting. It had lots of restaurants
and trinket shops. The best thing in Cesme was the Fort. During the Summer they have many concerts. While we were there they had 2 scheduled: 1 in the Fort at $40 to $70 US per ticket for a soloist female jazz singer (Who we had never heard of) and a street concert for free. The Street concert was so loud that even though we were on the other side of the harbor from the concert, it still shook our boat. It last to at least 2AM to boot!
The World's First Bowling Balls - with finger inserts!
Ayvalik, Turkey
What a surprise this harbor has turned out to be!!! One of the best that we have been to in Turkey. The holding is excellent with 360 degrees of protection from the Meltemi and other winds, and most of area where we were anchored is totally unspoiled. Ayvalik is a fairly populated town with a small marina run by Setur, the same corporation that recently purchased Netsel marina in Marmaris. They have WiFi, but the signal at our slip was very weak, fortunately, we have our super-duper WiFi access point interceptor to help us our. Connectivity with it was great and we had the highest signal level ever -57 DB (For those who care about things like that. Netsel was a mere -69.)
Ayvalik was our last stop in Turkey. From there we took tours to Bergama (Pergamom), Troy and Gallipoli.
An obvious example of a poorly converted Christian church to a Moslem mosque
Ayvalik Harbor - We first anchored in the bay on the lower left (See small white dot) and then we
went to the Marina shown as a white protrusion in the middle right of the satellite photo
Some Scenes from Ayvalik
Troy, Turkey
No other ancient city has captured the imagination like Troy. The Trojan War, narrated in Homes's Illiad in the 800 BC, was supposedly fought over the abduction of Helen, wife of Menelaos, King of Sparta by Paris, Prince of Troy. With its long list of famous characters captured in mythology, Achilles, Agamemnon, Priam, Paris, Patroklos, Hector, Helen and many more, have come to symbolize ancient Greece. The Illiad also tells us that out of the ashes of Troy, Rome was born (See Below.)
Many people told us that Troy was not worth going to because there was nothing there. We decided to go none-the-less and were rewarded with one of the best tours and insights to any archaeological site that we have been to. We believe that there is a lot to see and understand - reconciling mythology and accounts from the Iliad with current day remains at this historical site. Much of the doubt has been removed that this site is the actual site of the city Troy. Archaeologists have determined that there were 9 cities all built one on top of one another over 3000 years ago. In fact, detailed analysis shows that there have been 43 separate rebuilding's of the city, but archaeologists break these 43 down into 9 periods.
The Nine Cities of Troy
We were very fortunate to have as our guide Mustafa Askin who originally studied as an economist and turned amateur historian / tour guide. For over thirty years he worked with visiting archaeologists and did original research into the rich and hidden history of Troy. His informative tour was augmented by photographs and other insights taken from his book "A Revised History of Troy" (ISBN 975-7559-37-7). One of the most fascinating highlights of the tour was how Mustafa related the
origins of Rome back from Romulus and Remus whose father is said to be Aineias, the Trojan General, who was closely related to Priam, the king of Troy during the Trojan Wars. When Troy was destroyed by the Greeks, Aineias fled to Rome and lived out his life there. Romulus and Remus is said to be his offspring. Mustafa identified that many Roman emperors, Julius Caesar and Augustus both, were interested in moving the capitol of Rome to Troy for the very reason that Troy was considered to be a holy city and the roots of the roman power.
For a brief Soap Opera-like mythological accounting of the Myceans' involved in the Trojan Wars, Click Here
Scenes from our guided tour of Troy
Further Notes taken from The World Heritage Site:
Archaeological Site of Troy
Troy, with its 4,000 years of history, is one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world. The first excavations at the site were undertaken by the famous archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann in 1870. In scientific terms, its extensive remains are the most significant demonstration of the first contact between the civilizations of Anatolia and the Mediterranean world. Moreover, the siege of Troy by Spartan and Achaean warriors from Greece in the 13th or 12th century B.C., immortalized by Homer in the Iliad, has inspired great creative artists throughout the world ever since.
Location:
39°57'23" N, 26°14'20" E
Criteria:Justification for Inscription
The archaeological site of Troy is of immense significance in the understanding of the development of European civilization at a critical stage in its early development. It is, moreover, of exceptional cultural importance because of the profound influence of Homer’s Iliad on the creative arts over more than two millennia.
Pergamon (Bergama)
The Acropolis
The Serapis Temple
Later becoming a Byzantine Basilica
Asklepios
The God of Health and Life
The Asklepieion of Pergamom
One of the Major Health Centers of the Ancient World
Considered by Many to be the First Hospital
Cannukale, Turkey
We booked our tours for Troy and Gallipoli with Hassle Free Tours in Cannukale. They provided excellent service, door-to-door round trip service from our boat in Ayverlik, Turkey to Cannukale and to the tour sites. We recommend them for nayone who is contemplating visiting these two sites. We did not spend much time in Cannukale. We used it pretty much as a launching point for our tours. We stayed, at Hassle Free Tour's recommendation at Mayos Hotel with a water front view of the harbor and had a nice meal at one of the local water front restaurants. Very Enjoyable. Cannukale is a historic site in its own right but we had limited our time to Troy and Gallipoli which didn't leave us much time in Cannukale.
Some Scenes from Cannukale
Note: The Trojan Horse shown above was the same horse used to film the movie Troy in Mexico.
The Cannukale municipality paid to have it shipped to Cannukale where it now stands proudly in the town square on the water front.
Gallipoli, Turkey
Gallipoli and the Dardanelle Straights - Google Earth
Mel Gibson Starred in the movie about the ANZAC's in Gallipoli
The ANZAC Theater
ANZAC Forces Under Heavy Fire After Landing at ANZAC Bay
ANZAC, the landing 1915.
George Lambert
First World War official war artist
Oil on canvas.
Painted in London and Melbourne 1920-1922.
Courtesy Australian War Memorial
Some Scenes from Gallipoli
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Commemorative Statue of Attaturk Overlook ANZAC Forces from summit Chanuk Bair
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Memorial to ANZAC Soldiers who lost their lives in Gallipoli
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Gallipoli in now an Historic National Park and just recently the Turkish govenment passed a law requiring all Turkish student to visit the site at least once
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The Infamous ANZAC Beach
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Flowers fill the once deadly scene
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The infamous Sphynx overlooking the landing site
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Looking up Shrapnel Valley
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Dan standing next to war memorial outside of the Kabatepe Museum
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Famous statue of a Turk carrying back an injured ANZAC soldier back to the ANZAC line
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ANZAC Memorial
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Lone Pine Cemetary - This pine tree was grown from the original pine cone coming from the lone pine that stood on this spot
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The touching speech given by Attaturk commemorating all those who died in Gallipoli
And The Band Played Waltzing Matilda
As played at the ANZAC House in Gallipoli, Turkey in the documentary Four Corners the evening before our tour of the Gallipoli Battlefied.
The incorporation of the ‘Waltzing Matilda’ music and imagery into Eric Bogle's 1970s lament ‘And The Band Played Waltzing Matilda’ underlines the long association of ‘Matilda’ with wartime Australia (listen to audio). The implied ‘Waltzing Matilda’ nostalgia and comfort zone is juxtaposed with the harsh realities of war and its aftermath depicted in each verse. This underlines the extent to which Australians have variously taken the original song to heart as a wartime symbol closely allied to the status and function of a national flag.
And The Band Played Waltzing Matilda
When I was a young man I carried me pack
And I lived the free life of the rover
From the Murray's green basin to the dusty outback
I waltzed my Matilda all over
Then in 1915 my country said: Son,
It's time to stop rambling, there's work to be done
So they gave me a tin hat and they gave me a gun
And they sent me away to the war
And the band played Waltzing Matilda
When the ship pulled away from the quay
And amid all the tears, flag waving and cheers
We sailed off for Gallipoli
It well I remember that terrible day
When our blood stained the sand and the water
And how in that hell they call Suvla Bay
We were butchered like lambs at the slaughter
Johnny Turk, he was ready, he primed himself well
He rained us with bullets, and he showered us with shell
And in five minutes flat, we were all blown to hell
He nearly blew us back home to Australia
And the band played Waltzing Matilda
When we stopped to bury our slain
Well we buried ours and the Turks buried theirs
Then it started all over again
Oh those that were living just tried to survive
In that mad world of blood, death and fire
And for ten weary weeks I kept myself alive
While around me the corpses piled higher
Then a big Turkish shell knocked me arse over head
And when I awoke in me hospital bed
And saw what it had done, I wished I was dead
I never knew there was worse things than dying
Oh no more I'll go Waltzing Matilda
All around the green bush far and near
For to hump tent and pegs, a man needs both legs
No more waltzing Matilda for me
They collected the wounded, the crippled, the maimed
And they shipped us back home to Australia
The armless, the legless, the blind and the insane
Those proud wounded heroes of Suvla
And when the ship pulled into Circular Quay
I looked at the place where me legs used to be
And thank Christ there was no one there waiting for me
To grieve and to mourn and to pity
And the Band played Waltzing Matilda
When they carried us down the gangway
Oh nobody cheered, they just stood there and stared
Then they turned all their faces away
Now every April I sit on my porch
And I watch the parade pass before me
I see my old comrades, how proudly they march
Renewing their dreams of past glories
I see the old men all tired, stiff and worn
Those weary old heroes of a forgotten war
And the young people ask "What are they marching for?"
And I ask myself the same question
And the band plays Waltzing Matilda
And the old men still answer the call
But year after year, their numbers get fewer
Someday, no one will march there at all
Waltzing Matilda, Waltzing Matilda
Who'll come a-Waltzing Matilda with me?
And their ghosts may be heard as they march by the billabong
So who'll come a-Waltzing Matilda with me?
© Eric Bogle
Credits: Bogle, Eric, And the Band Played Waltzing Matilda, sung by Eric Bogle 1980. Released EMI 1982. From the collection of ScreenSound Australia, the Screen and Sound Archive, MAVIS 82399.
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In Contrast - below are the words of the popularized version of Waltzing Matilda
Author: Roger McGuinn
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Waltzing Matilda
Marie Cowan (version 3)
Once a jolly swagman camped by a billabong
Under the shade of a Coolibah tree
And he sang as he watched and waited till his billy boiled
You'll come a waltzing Matilda with me
Waltzing Matilda, Waltzing Matilda
You'll come a-waltzing Matilda with me
And he sang as he watched and waited til his billy boiled
You'll come a-waltzing Matilda with me
Down came a jumbuck to drink at that billabong
Up jumped the swagman and grabbed him with glee
And he sang as he shoved that jumbuck in his tucker bag
You'll come a-waltzing Matilda with me
Waltzing Matilda, Waltzing Matilda
You'll come a-waltzing Matilda with me
And he sang as he watched and waited til his billy boiled
You'll come a-waltzing Matilda with me
Up rode the squatter mounted on his thoroughbred
Down came troopers one two three
Whose that jumbuck you've got in the tucker bag?
You'll come a-waltzing Matilda with me
Waltzing Matilda, Waltzing Matilda
You'll come a-waltzing Matilda with me
And he sang as he watched and waited til his billy boiled
You'll come a-waltzing Matilda with me
Up jumped the swagman and sprang into the billabong
You'll never catch me alive said he
And his ghost may be heard as you pass by that billabong
You'll come a-waltzing Matilda with me.
Glossary of Terms
Waltzing - walking along a bush track
Matilda - a bedroll
Swagman - an unemployed drifter
Billabong - Aboriginal word for a waterhole
Coolibah - Aboriginal word for a type of Australian tree
Billy - a tin with a wire handle used for boiling water and heating food
Jumbuck - Aboriginal word for sheep
Tucker Bag - bag containing food (tucker)
Squatter - a landowner
Troopers - Policemen - Policemen
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