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Western Aegean 2006
The Summer of 2006 - Greek Cruising - Western Aegean
(Including Northern Greece - Thasos and Khalkidhiki Peninsula (Macedonia), The Northern Sporades,
Athens and the Cyclades)
Updated Aug 20, 2006
General Cruising Area in the Western Aegean
Taken from Google Earth
Map Showing Turkey and Greece to the Boot of Italy
Highlighted is the Greek Western Aegean area we cruised
Places We Visited:
Karen's Orchids
Thasos
Continuously occupied since prehistoric times, Thasos is northern extremes of our venture into the Aegean. It lies just 6 miles south of Macedonia. Known as the Green Island, because it is so verdant. Gold and marble were the original products of the island. Marble is still mined there.
Thasos Island
Thasos Island and our course around it showing the 2 places where we parked Dakare:
On the southern shore at Alyki and on the northern shore at Thasos Town
Harbor Views on Thasos Island
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Alyki Harbor in Thymonas Cove
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Thasos Town, the capitol of Thasos on the northern side of the island
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Views of Thasos and the Acropolis from the Acropolis
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Thasos Town from the Acropolis
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Ancient Theater Overlooking the Harbor
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Trail through the Woods Leading to the Acropolis
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Another View of Thasos Town
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What's Left of the Medieval Castle on the Acropolis
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Large Stones from Apollo's Temple were recycled to build the Castle on the Acropolis
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What's Left of Athena's Temple on the Acropolis
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The site of Apollo's Temple taken from Athena's Site
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The View from Apollo's Temple, Acropolis Site
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What remains of the Medieval Castle's Wall
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Some More Views around and about Thasos
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Octopus Hanging to Dry, Aliki, Thasos
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Fish Scale Slate Roof, Aliki
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Dakare Anchored in Aliki Harbor
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Aliki in Greek - The best beach though a bit overpopulated
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Thasos from the Sea
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View of Thasos Harbor from our drinking hole
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Dan on Panagia's Spring Pathway
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Karen Standing over Springs in Panagia
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Flowers in Hilltop Town Panagia
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Flowered Home in Panagia
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3 Fingers - Khalkidiki Peninsula (Macedonia)
The 3 peninsulas shown above together form the Khaldidiki Region.
It is often referred to as the 3 Fingers area.
We have seen Khaldidiki spelled different ways - Chakidiki, Khalkidhiki, etc. Athos on the right is the domain of the monks and their monasteries. Sithonia in the middle is more undeveloped then the Kassandra on the left. We had just left this area when a major forest fire started on Kassandra in the north, effectively blocking people from leaving. They had to be evacuated from the eastern shore to Sithonia by the Coast Guard and fishing boats.
Athos Peninsula
Highlighted are some of the main Monasteries on the Peninsula
We navigated the East, South and West coasts of this peninsula and have covered it in enough detail that we have dedicated an entire separate page to it. Please click HERE if you would like to see the photos and text for this leg of our voyage - The Monasteries. Athos, often referred to as Mt. Athos or the Holy Mountain, towers 2033 meters above sea level and dominates the southern end of the peninsula. It is known to create its own weather and indeed, that was our experience as we passed from East to West. We experienced gusts over 30 knots with the winds steady in the 25 to 30 knot region until we crossed over to the west side of Athos. Athos has been an autonomous state for over 1,000 years. It is known world-wide for its ancient monasteries. The first monastery was built in 963 CE. All females are forbidden entry onto this peninsula. Only recently has female animals been allowed entry and this to the consternation of many conservative monks. Men who wish to visit can do so but must apply for a permit up to 6 months in advance and visits are limited to 4 days. One stays at a monastery but is not charged. Donations of course are welcomed. 120 permits are issued each day to Greek men and only 10 per day to foreigners. One must justify the visit based on religious or cultural grounds.
We did a NE to South to NW circuit of the peninsula. Later we learned that tours of the peninsula are typically limited to the West side of Athos because the East side usually presents problems due to adverse sea conditions. This we could appreciate! Having done the total circuit ourselves we got to see many of the monasteries only see by a permit carrying male. We were impressed with the size and number of monasteries.
Sithonia Peninsula
We found a lovely anchorage on this peninsula in the NE corner. The water was the warmest we experienced and made for wonderful daily swims. The anchorage was extremely well protected from all directions and the holding was fantastic. Surprisingly, there were a few homes here but not many. The East side of the peninsula, where we spent our time, ids known for its vegetation, whereas the other side of the peninsula is known for its craggy outcrops and vineyards.
Kassandra Peninsula
We decided not to visit this peninsula. Although attractive, it is very touristy, catering mainly to vacationing Greeks. The beaches are nice but we did not see any compelling reason to use our remaining time (Summer - it was then late August) visiting this island. We present it here only for completeness.
Just after leaving the 3 Fingers area, we were listening to BBC on our SSB radio - something we do almost every morning while we are drinking our morning coffee. It turns out thee was a major forest fire on the peninsula. It is believed that the fire(s) wee deliberately set. Many people were threatened and had to be evacuated. They had to shuttled off the peninsula over to the Sithonia (Middle) finger. At the time we were listening, although the fire was large and dangerous, no life had been lost except for a German swimmer and it was unclear if that was related to the fire.
Kassandra, the leftmost finger that we did not visit
Northern Sporades
The Sporades are divided into two groups, the Northern group and the Southern or eastern group. Sporades aptly mean scattered and indeed they are. We visited the Southern / eastern Sporades in 2004 and we visited the Northern Sporades in 2006. These islands were first settled by the Minoan's, Athens, Macedonians, and Rome. During the middle ages the islands were subject to pirate attacks and most of the inhabitants moved inland to fortified cities to defend themselves against attacks. It was only in the 19th century that coastal towns were inhabited. Most of the relatively new architecture consists of attractive white, pink and blue-washed housing. There is not much vegetation here. Many of the boats are painted blue too. When asked a local fisherman attested to the fact that the paint from the boat came from their home, thus it was tax free.
The Northern Sporades - mostly dry an arid, the most vegetated island that we visited
was Skiathos, center left.
Josh guarding his water bowl
Pelagos
Pelagos is a national park and basically uninhabited. The bay that we anchored in faces North and during a Meltemi, could be a problem but since there was no wind during our visit, it was not a problem. This island is one of the remaining habitats of the Mediterranean Monk Seal and as such, there has been consideration to ban yachts from visiting this island. So far, this has not been implemented and we had about a dozen yachts total anchored along with us. Since the bay is quite large, this was not a problem. We did not see the med Monk Seal but we did get to see lots of goats and kids.
Nisos Pelagos
One can easily why in a NE Meltemi, one could get bottled up in this harbor.
Sometimes the Meltemi can last for many days.
Ormos Planitis - Our Anchorage in Northern Pelagos
Some scenes from Pelagos
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Looking Out
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2 Big boys shared the harbor with us
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The Tongue
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Notice the narrow entrance
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Skiathos
A highly touristic town, predominantly visited by mainland Greeks. this island had almost continuous ferry service. Loud music from 3 clubs lining the harbor again proved to be an unwanted nuisance, lasting till 6AM. We didn't particularly care for this island as we didn't like the congestion, the anchorage and the noise. We also had our first bad Taverna meal here. That is not to say that there aren't good restaurants in Skiathos, we were just spoiled by the previous restaurants in other locations. We felt like we were tourist meat and they had baited us in. Service was unfriendly and impatient, food was skimpy, expensive and what we were served did not have good quality / taste to it. We are sure that better restaurants were there. We just did not take the time to find them.
Ormos Skiathos

Every so often you just hit a place and have a hard time of it. That is a good description of our first day here at Skiathos Harbor. First it was the fiasco of docking. Actually on our first attempt at med mooring using our own anchor, we did well, but there was a problem. Before attempting to med moor we sought advice as to an available location. From what we could tell and what we were told, there was only one place left at the quay. It was a tight spot sandwiched in between the last boat on the quay and a dock that went out perpendicular to the quay that already had many boats tied to it with their own anchor down. This meant that it was likely that we would have a mess of spaghetti on our hands when it came time to pull our anchor, but we went for it anyway. We actually got in just fine on the first pass only to find out that we were in a slip usually occupied by a day-sailing cat. We could squeeze over to our right side but that really required us to relay our anchor chain since it was perfectly aligned with our bow. If we were to move over without moving our chain / anchor, it would be in the way of our neighbor to be, the catamaran. So we decided to up our anchor and to relocate it about 20 feet to our right. This attempt did not go so well. The anchor chain collapsed on itself in the chain locker and as Karen was letting the chain out as Dan was baking into the new location, the chain bound in the chain locker and Karen had to undo the bind. Although she was able to accomplish it in relatively quick fashion, it was somewhat late in that the light wind had pushed us over onto the anchor line of the small power boat to our left and had wedged itself against our rudder. We couldn't turn the wheel which meant that the rode had gotten caught between the rudder and the hull and it was jamming the rudder. An additional concern of course was that of getting the rode fouled in our prop. Needless to say the Greek power boater on our left whose rode we had caught was agitated (this is the polite description) and at the same time, the Greek sail boater on our right was complaining that now our anchor was overlaying the power boater's anchor from the dock coming our perpendicular from the quay and that the power boaters anchor was also crossed over his (The sailor). He was also jumping up and down saying that now there would be 3 anchors crossed and that he was planning to leave the next morning, implying we had now created a real mess. Well that was it. Locked between two irate Greek boaters, both complaining about our being there, I decided it was high time to leave and anchor out. Fortunately, we were able to extricate ourselves both off of the anchor line that our rudder was caught against and the crossed anchors. That would have been enough of a trauma for one day, but it didn't end there...
Skiathos Harbor

So we picked out a place to anchor. Problem this time is that although anchoring is allowed in the harbor, the anchoring spot is narrowly defined and most of the good locations are taken up by locals on mooring balls. We found a spot that looked good near the outside of the permitted area next to a Kiwi boat that we had seen several time before in our travels in Turkey and Greece. We laid our anchor and felt comfortable about our location. Every so often however, the Kiwi would come on deck and give us a scowling look. We felt that we had given him enough space and each time he retreated we felt as though he must have accepted that idea too. So it was a very hot day and our batteries were down and we both retired to the comfort of our cabin while we fired up the Genset to charge the batteries and cool down the boat with our air conditioner. Before you know it, we heard some noise and a woman's voice was hollering Dakare, Dakare!!! We dashed outside to find that the wind had shifted and that our boats (Dakare and the Kiwi's boat) were about to indulge in some intimate dialog. We are not sure if our anchor dragged or not in the wind shift but no matter what the reason, we were on top of the Kiwis. So we upped our anchor and tired to figure out where to go. we finally chose a new spot not far from where we were originally and as we were slowly moving to position ourselves to drop our anchor in that location a Greek charter boat, who had also spied the same position, was barrelling full steam ahead to beat us to the location. Even at our slow speed there was no way he could beat us to it but we can say he sure tired. It was not clear if he was going to drop his anchor on top of us but I guess logic prevailed and he moved off to a new location. So we tried setting our anchor and we are not sure if we were dragging with our engine in full load reverse at 2000RPM's, which is what we normally do to put strain on our anchor to test if we are holding well. With the chain fully stretched, Karen and I felt as though we were too far into the main part of the harbor where the ferry boats come in and we didn't want to find ourselves being intimidated by the ferry boats all evening long. So we went through the fire drill again. we upped our anchor and went in about another 20-30 feet and this put us at a comfortable distance from where we felt the ferry boats would be. As we were finishing our last anchor drill, the wind picked up to about 20 knots and lots more boats came in to anchor. Some we thought - precariously. So, with the boat bobbing up and down in the chop from the wind in the harbor and watching the other newly anchored boats, who did not fill us with a great deal of confidence that they would not drag, we decided to sit it out on our boat and cancel our plans to go ashore and have dinner. Well, that was not the end of it...

A sexually provocative cake at the local bakery!!!
One new perspective we have come to this year is that there seems to be a growing number of discos and clubs that play over driven amplified music until 6 Am in the morning. We have written about this in a few other anchorages that we have visited this Summer. To keep the boat cool in the evening while at anchor we need to keep the hatches open. The hatches almost seem to act like noise collectors and direct the sometime abominable music down below while we are trying to sleep. We have spent many wakeless hours in these circumstances which usually results in our leaving that anchorage first thing in the morning. In this case however, unlike the others, there were 3 competing bands. The cacophony created by the intermixing of Greek traditional music (most of the mid-eastern wailing type), rock and roll and disco music, all simultaneously being integrated was truly too much to bare This was more like a torture. Surely a war crimes commission would have convicted any perpetrator of this kind of noise pollution to a life time imprisonment if he had subjected prisoners to such abuse. Dreams of several variations of how to sabotage the power supply to these clubs danced through my mind as I lay in my semi-comatose state.

Where we had our bad meal - at least it had a nice ambience
Needless to say, our first day in Skiathos left a lot to be desired, but we had business to attend to. Grocery shopping, Internet - to pay our bills and get our land line email, etc., had to be done. So it looked like another day in downtown Skiathos.
One of the many bell towers
One thing that we did notice while sitting up and waiting for the wind to die down in the anchorage, with hopefully no boats dragging their anchor down on us, was the number of ferries coming into the harbor. Never have we seen so many at an island. There were many regular ferries, both large and small, there were several fast ferries and there were the high speed ferries. All hustling back and forth. Some of the large ferries brought over bus after bus load of tourists. ...And these were the big fancy deluxe buses that carry lots of tourist that have all the amenities. Additionally, there were heavy duty 18 wheeler trucks carrying supplies over to the island in addition to all the small trucks, regular small car vehicles and the hordes of motorcycles that emanated from the bowls of the ferry. It didn't seem possible that so much could come out of one boat. With that said, it would seem natural that for the island to be balanced, all that came out of the ferry would be matched by an equal amount of people, cars, trucks and busses that would go back in. This didn't seem to happen, which leads us to believe that at the rate we saw all of this tonnage being emptied onto the island and none of it apparently leaving, that it would only be a short time before Skiathos became another Atlantis and sank into the sea under all this weight!
Some scenes in Skiathos
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Local Street
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Local Street from restaurant
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Left Harbor view of town from Boat
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Right Harbor view of town from Boat
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Skyros
The island of Skyros, the Southern most island in the Northern Sporades.
Dakare was anchored (Red Spot) in Pefko Bay. Holding was good. We were the only boat and
there was great protection from the Meltemi winds.
Kafireas Strait
Kafireas Strait, bottom center, has a justified bad reputation from strong winds and bad seas
Dakare can be seen heading from Skyros Island, The southern most island in the Northern Sporades through the Kafireas Strait. It was blowing about 20 knots until we got to the Strait. There it picked up an additional 10 knots. The seas were about 2 meters. As you can see from the chart above, there was plenty of traffic to contend with as well. It made for an interesting navigational trip. Unlike US waters, there were no traffic lanes in the Strait and it appeared that vessels simply went wherever they wanted.
Kea
After negotiating Kafireas Strait, we pulled into Kea. This was an 88 NM day, punctuated by strong winds and following seas in the Straits. We made great time. Unfortunately, out mainsail roller furler failed as we entered the harbor and we were stuck with our full main up in strong winds from the Meltemi, despite the fact that we were in a protected harbor. It made for taking the main down manually an interesting operation. We could have hand cranked the main into the mast but we decided to take it down so we could look to see why the roller furler was not working. To do so with the main up would have been problematic. The only problem in taking the main down was to extract the full vertical battens in the sail under those conditions. The next morning, after getting a good nights sleep, investigation showed that the problem was due to a broken belt drive for the furler motor. We also noticed that the luff rod (The metal rod that holds the main in place in the mast) was very loose. We were concerned that perhaps it or the gears holding the luff rod had been damaged. We wouldn't know the answer to that until we got to Athens (about 40 NM away) and had the furler inspected. In the mean time, we had to listen to the luff rod clanging against the mast.

The island of Kea
The Harbor in Kea - Nikolaos Bay.
We anchored (Red Spot) in the Center North in the only spot with 35 feet of water.
Typical depth was about 50 feet. Holding was good.
Athens
A city of 5 million people, named after Athena, for which the Parthenon was built, roughly in 432 BC, on top of the Acropolis. As cosmopolitan as any city we have been too, it is in striking contrast to many of the small towns and islands that we have been to recently.
The Parthenon, Acropolis
Piraeus - Zea Marina
We chose to stay at Zea Marina in Piraeus, North Athens. This turned out to be an excellent location. It was recommended to us by L'ame Libra (Our sister ship) who had come here to repair the lightning damage to their boat. All services were available and we had our mast furler fixed, the luff rod adjusted, our dodger restitched (yet again) and more window covers made all in the same day. We were also able to get our USA propane gas bottle filled, fueled up by a delivery truck that came to the quay where we were side-tied. After washing our boat we also varnished out hand rails and teak toe rails (Starboard side). We were surprised by the amount of salt encrusted on our boat. The only time we think it was worse was when we beat down to the USVI from the Bahamas.

At the beginning of the 5th century B.C. and before its development into a commercial port, Piraeus was founded as a full service war harbor. Records show that it was built at the suggestions of Themistokles We are told that in modern times, Piraeus is the largest port of Greece.
Karen, hard at work varnishing
While at the marina, we took in the film staring Johnny Depp, Pirates of the Caribbean, Dead Man's Chest. Karen must have REALLY liked it since her chuckles were at least as loud as the rest of the young audience in attendance. We also signed up for a personal tour of Athens.
The city of Athens with Dakare at Zea Marina (Center)
Dakare tied up at Zea Marina ... and notice, how rare in the Med, we are side tied!!!
Two views of Zea Marina, Piraeus, Athens.
Dakare's position can be seen on the chart on the left.
Scenes From the Open Market on Tuesdays
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Karen's Big Find: White & Purple Egplants
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Hunting for Limes
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The Fruits & Veggies Looked Great!
The only thing that was hard to find was good lettuce
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The outdoor Market went on forever
(Less than half of it can be seen in this photo)
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Scenes around and about Zea Marina
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Capt'n Larry on Amevi joined us for a very interesting evening where we shared tall tales
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FloCafe where we enjoyed many coffee frappes and free Internet access
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Dakare side tied at Zea Marina
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Karen's favorite double-ender
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Historic Sites
The Parthenon, Acropolis from Google Earth
Scenes from the Parthenon on the Acropolis, Athens
Begun at the instigation of Pericles in the 5th Century BC
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The Parthenon
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The Propylaia looking outward from the Parthenon
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The Theater of Herodes Atticus (Odeon) built 161 CE
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Relief detail in Parthenon Pediment
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Limestone sculptures in the pediment of the earliest Parthenon
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Karen looking on at the Parthenon
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Detail of Sphinx
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The Erechtheion
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1 of 4 Original Statues Preserved Indoors
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Porch of the Caryatids, Erechtheion
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Changing of the Guard at the Palace
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Notice the old garb, especially the boots
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High stepping kick symbolizing the booting of the Turks out of Greece
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Scenes from the National Archeological Museum, Athens
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National Archaeological Museum, Pattison, Athens
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Zeus
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Ceremonial Gold Death Mask of Agamemnon
Found at Mycenae by Schlemann - dated 1500BC
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Bust of Hadrian
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Caligula
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Aphrodite refusing the advances of Pan & Eros
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Zeus (Or possibly Poseidon)
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Vera--> Trojan --> Hadrian --> Antoinese
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Poseidon
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Aphrodite
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Aegina - The Pistachio Capitol of the World
Aegina - The Pistachio Capitol of the World
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A Pistachio Tree with Fruit (Nuts)
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Aegina claims to be the Pistachio capitol of the World. We are not sure about that but we can say that
the pistachios we tasted on Aegina were some of the plumest, best tasting pistachios we ever had. Above,
the raw nut from the tree can be seem. The nut can be seen covered with it's soft, velvety shell that can be
easily removed revealing the hard psitachio shell we all see in the store. The hard shell of the nut I ate, was already
split open. I had been under the impression that the shell split open when the nut are heated in the oven, but obviously, that does happen before the oven too.
The Temple of Aphia - 490 BC
To Honor nymph Aphia, Daughter of Zues
The Temple as it is thought to exist around 490 BC
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First View of Temple
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The Propylon (Entrace) of Temple
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The Cella (Inner sanctom) is enclosed
by two stories of Doric columns
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View of town from Temple
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Karen - No, that's not a halo, it's my lens!!!
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Good example of a Doric Column
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The Church of Agia Triada - 19th Century
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View of Church as we rounded the mountain
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Entrance from Monastery to Church
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The Church (Under Repair)
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Mosaic Entering Church
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Other Scenes in Aegina
Poros - The Island of Poseidon, the god of the sea
The Island of Poros (Center) lies in the SW Saronic Gulf
The mainland of the Peloponnese can be see south of Poros
The Peloponnese mainland can be seen to the south of Poros (Center)
Poros Town
Poros Waterfront
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